Walking
on air
The
passing of Derry man Martin McGuinness this week had me thinking of the last
time I visited the north of Ireland. It was two or three years ago and while I
was there I took a trip on the Tour bus which travels around the fine city of Belfast.
Not that I was into what some call ‘conflict
tourism,’ rather it seemed an easy way to see the city. It was interesting
to see for the first time so many of the streets and areas which made the news
reports so often when I was growing up. The peace wall dividing part of the
city is an echo of those times and a reminder that tensions can still be raised
at times. On that sunny morning I had the surreal experience of sitting on the
top deck of the bus as it wound its way around streets where ordinary folk were
living ordinary lives. A man walking his dog glanced up at the tour bus in time
to be photographed by some Chinese tourists. Another chap cutting his grass
barely seemed to notice the bus edging along the road by his house.
From
the ordinary streets of the city the bus then moved on to the Parliament
building at Stormont, surely the grandest ever Parliament constructed for such
a small province? The statue of a Dublin Lawyer, Edward Carson, stands in
defiant pose. This was the man, above all others, who guided the Unionists down
the path of partition and in that sense he remains a figure of distaste to many
Republican Irishmen who saw the division of their country as an unforgivable
crime. He was not without some sensibilities though and warned the new Northern
Ireland province in 1920s not to treat the Catholic minority marooned in the
six counties poorly…
"We used to say that we could
not trust an Irish parliament in Dublin to do justice to the Protestant
minority. Let us take care that that reproach can no longer be made against
your parliament, and from the outset let them see that the Catholic minority
have nothing to fear from a Protestant majority.’’
Any
unbiased history shows clearly that the new Northern Ireland state failed to
listen to him and discrimination, biased policing and denial of basic civil
rights, such as one man one vote, was denied to the minority Catholic
population.
The
excellent tour guide on the bus was clearly well schooled in the art of
sounding totally neutral as he narrated this journey around the city’s main
historical features. From the impressive City Hall to the much bombed Europa
Hotel; from the new Titanic Quarter and the old Harland and Wolff shipyard, he
gave us some fascinating, if carefully scripted, information. He smiled as he
told the tourists on the bus that the ‘H
& W’ signs painted onto the huge cranes in Harland and Wolff’s meant, ‘Hello and Welcome.’ Having read Andrew
Boyd’s book ‘Holy War in Belfast’ it
seems clear that the shipyard was not always a welcoming place for members of
the minority community in the province.
It’s
hard to travel around Belfast and not notice the murals or memorials to the
various incidents which signpost the conflict. One such place is the area
around St Matthew’s church in Short Strand. It was here in that hot summer of
1970 that local people acted to protect their area against what they saw as a
loyalist incursion. They knew well what had occurred the previous summer when
Catholic streets were burned to the ground as the Police did nothing. The
ensuing gun battle around St Matthew’s lasted all night and left 3 dead and 28
wounded but the pogrom was avoided. Loyalists, of course, have their own version
of events but what cannot be denied is that such occurrences marked the
continuing spiral of violence which was to tear that society apart for the best
part of 30 years. God alone knows how
ordinary folk managed to bring up their children and do their best for their
families in the midst of the chaos around them.
I don’t make judgements about the hard choices people had to make then.
When the state fails in its duty to protect citizens, who can blame people for
protecting their families and homes themselves?
The
tabloids here in the UK have not been kind to Martin McGuinness and as usual
portray Britain’s role in Ireland as some sort of peace mission keeping the two
tribes of waring Paddies apart. The truth is more prosaic as anyone who studies
the conflict will soon discover. None of the armed factions came out of it with
their honour intact. Not the paramilitaries, not the politicians and certainly
not the security apparatus of the British state which demonstrated that old
ruthlessness which Indians, Boers, Kenyans and many others have long known about.
The
unity of any people is first conceived in their minds. There is a case for
arguing that the violence of the troubles made Irish unity a more distant
prospect. The peace process was in many ways remarkable, seemingly implacable enemies
worked together and McGuinness and Ian Paisley seemed to strike up a genuine
friendship. Paisley seemed to mellow greatly after his near death experience in
the early 1990s and talked of wanting to be remembered as a peacemaker.
McGuinness never gave up his aim of reunifying his country but accepted that the
armed struggle was over. The vast majority in the province will surely be happy
that it is?
At
the demographics show that Northern Ireland will have a Catholic majority in a
generation, there needs to be a coming together of people. There is a need to
escape the ‘winners and losers’
mentality of the past and try to forge a future where everyone has a respected
place. None of this is easy but even on some of the darkest of the troubles
there were shafts of light cutting through the darkness. I recall in the
aftermath of the Remembrance Day explosion in Enniskillen the astonishing
courage of Gordon Wilson who lost his daughter that day. He said of her as they
lay in the rubble…
‘She held my
hand tightly, gripped me as hard as she could. She said ‘Daddy, I love you very
much.’ Those were her exact words to me and those were the last words I ever
heard her say. But I bear no ill will. I bear no grudge. Dirty sort of talk is
not going to bring her back to life. She was a great wee lassie, she loved her
profession. She was a pet. She’s dead. She’s in heaven and we shall meet again.
I will pray for these men tonight and every night.’
The hope for all conflicts is that good
people can forgive and look forward instead of back all of the time. Most
people know well the faults and failings of the past but there needs to be more
focus on the sort of society we can create in the future. Bill Clinton said of
Martin McGuinness today…
‘’After growing up at a time of rage and resentment, he
decided to fight discrimination by whatever means available to the
passionate young, including violence. He realised that you could have an
Ireland that was free, independent and self-governing and still inclusive. That
the dreams of little children were no more or no less legitimate just because
of their faith background or their family's history or the sins of their
parents."
Clinton
spoke of the need to honour McGuinness by finishing his work and quoted Seamus
Heaney who received the Nobel Prize for literature. Clinton said…
‘Heaney said that the secret of his success was
deciding to walk on air against his better judgement. Believe me when the
people who made this peace did it every single one of them decided to take a
flying leap into the unknown against their better judgement.’’
As
projections show that Catholics will be in a majority in Northern Ireland
within 20 years, there will be challenges ahead should that translate into
majority support for reunification. That is by no means certain but at the end
of the day people need to live together for true unity is surely far more than
the absence of borders just as peace is more than the absence of war.
I’m
hopeful that the land of my forebears will reach an accommodation in future in
which all are equally respected and valued. Whatever they decide, I hope it is
without the rancour and violence of the past.
It
has been a long and painful road for Ireland but there is always hope and there
are always good people working away for a better future.