The Road to Ballymote
The huge grey metal bulk of the P&O ferry nudged its way towards the
Quayside as Paddy and Sean stood on the upper deck in the surprisingly chill
May wind. As they regarded the hilly town of Larne for the first time, Sean
turned to his friend, ‘I can’t believe we’re
actually doing this, Paddy.’ Paddy McLaughlin, smiled at his lifelong
friend and replied, ‘Well we are buddy
and I’ve got a feeling it’s all going to go well.’ Then, almost as an
afterthought he added, ‘I hear there’s no
many Tims in Larne so ye’d best keep yer hoops oot of sight,’ Sean nodded
and zipped up his fleece before the two friends headed below and prepared to set
foot on Irish soil for the first time. Their quest was an unusual one but it
was a worthwhile one too. They walked towards the door in the bulkhead and down
the stairs towards the exit point. Paddy’s uncle Tam spotted them and shook
both their hands. ‘Mind, what I told ye
lads, be careful but enjoy it too.’ The two friends walked down the
gangplank feeling a little like explorers in a new land. Both of them were
excited at the prospects of the adventures ahead. Their odyssey was about to
begin.
Their Irish trip was born two months earlier as their supporter’s bus
had trundled through the Highlands heading for Inverness. Paddy and Sean were
sitting together as they always did on these away trips. Early kick off times
had made such trips a pain as the bus had left Glasgow at 7.30am. As they neared
Inverness, bus Convener big Phil used the microphone on the bus to address members
of the Neil McCallum 1888 CSC in his
commanding voice. ‘Right lads, and you
too Neave,’ he began remembering to include the only woman on the bus that particular
day. ‘We need an idea to raise money for
the 1254125 Charity. Every Supporter’s club is doing something and we need to
get with it. Any ideas then let me know.’
There was a buzz on the bus as ideas were discussed. Everything from a
Race Night to a sponsored darts event was considered but there was always some
objection or some reason not to go with any of the ideas. A wag from near the
front of the bus called out, ‘Here, Neave
you could set up a kissing booth and charge £1 for a kiss, fiver a snog and a
tenner for 5 minutes tonsil tennis, whit dae ye say?’ There was a burst of
laughter but Neave was having none of it and retorted, ‘Aye, good yin Dixie, it wouldn’t be the first time you paid for a snog
eh?’ There was a roar of laughter
and some whistling and cheering as a red faced Dixie clamped it realising that
Neave was going for his weak spot. Most on the bus knew Dixie had spent a
couple of hours of a recent European trip in the red light district of town and
that he wasn’t there looking for a Celtic View. As the bus neared the
Caledonian Stadium they began to sing a familiar battle cry; ‘Hail Hail the Celts are here!’ So they
were. They’d get behind the Bhoys for 90 minutes then think about fundraising
ideas once the points were won.
Just over two hours later they returned to the bus in good spirits
having seen Tony Watt inspire Celtic to a solid win in what was usually a
difficult venue for Celtic. As the
coaches began to pull out of the car park for the long journey south Paddy
looked at the shields of the various CSCs looking out for the ones he knew folk
on. He soon spotted the James Stokes VC shield from the Gorbals and the
Millburn bus from the Garngad. Old Celtic areas like that would always be following
the Bhoys. He also noticed a bus from South Shields and then one which had
travelled to Inverness from London. True Celts indeed, taking on a 1200 mile
round trip like that he thought as the bus passed. Then a mini bus passed and
in the rear window was a club shield with a familiar face painted onto it. It
was a skillfully crafted image of Brother Walfrid, Celtic’s visionary founder.
Below it was the motif ‘Brother Walfrid 1888
CSC.’ A light came on somewhere in
Paddy’s head.
‘Here, Phil, I’ve got a belter of an idea.’ Paddy began outlining his plan to raise money for the 1254125 charity
in an excited voice. He and Sean would travel to Brother Walfrid’s home town in
Ireland in time for his birthday on May 18th. They’d even try to
find his old house if it still existed and lay some flowers as a tribute. Phil listened, occasionally scratching his
head and nodding and allowed Paddy to finish before commenting. ‘So let me get this straight Paddy, you and
Sean aim to travel from Glasgow to Country Sligo without spending a single coin?’ Paddy nodded, ‘It’s for charity, I’ll beg lifts, walk, anything to make it. The
Celtic family will help us make it if we get the word out.’ Phil had heard a lot of crazy ideas in
his 55 years but this sounded like one of the more outlandish. ‘Paddy,’ he said in his fatherly tones, ‘Ireland is an island, are you planning to
swim it?’ Paddy shook his head in a frustrated manner, ‘The Ferry Phil, my Uncle Tam works on the
Cairnryan to Larne service!’ Phil
thought carefully about Paddy’s idea for a couple of minutes. ‘Right Paddy, we’ll support you in any way we
can. If you can make it to Ballymote without spending a coin then I’ll be utterly
stunned but fuck it, let’s give it a go!’ Sean had listened to the
discussion in silence, it always amused him when Paddy arranged things involving
him without actually asking him first. Paddy turned to him, as if in an
afterthought, ‘You up for it mate?’ Sean
looked at him, he didn’t need to be asked! ‘Does
a bear shit in the woods?’ he replied with a smile.
The next few weeks saw Paddy and Sean plan their trip in greater detail.
Paddy’s uncle was sure he could get them on the Ferry without charge but the
land bound part of the 200 odd miles from Glasgow to Ballymote was another
issue. They’d leave Glasgow on the 15th of May which would give them
3 days to get to county Sligo before Walfrid’s Birthday. Travelling through the
North of Ireland was an issue they’d need to consider carefully. Not everyone
there was likely to help two Tims making the pilgrimage to County Sligo. In
fact they’d need to be careful in some areas. Big Phil on the bus was as good
as his word and contacted CSCs all over their route and arranged phone numbers
and addresses the boys could use if necessary on their travels. There was also
a number he told then only to use in an emergency, telling them ominously that
the guy on the other end of the line was not a man to be trifled with.
Sponsorship poured in as the word got around the Celtic family that two lads
intended travelling from Glasgow to Ballymote without spending a coin. They
would take no money with them for transport, food or anything else, just a
rucksack of clothes and their mobile phones. To prove they’d completed the
journey they would post pictures on a specially created Facebook page showing
towns and villages on the route. The journey began fittingly enough, like that
of Celtic FC, on the steps of St Mary’s
Church in the east end of Glasgow. Most of the members of the Neil McCallum CSC
were there to cheer them off. Big Phil gave them an intricate looking silver Celtic
Cross to place in Walfrid’s old house if they found it. On the plinth was
engraved the words ‘Go raibh maith agat Athair.
Táimid ag cuimhneamh i gcónaÃ.’ What does it mean? asked Sean. Phil wrapped the 10 inch silver coloured cross in a piece
of cloth, ‘It means Thank you Father, we
still remember.’ Sean nodded and carefully placed it in his backpack. Going
on this trip meant they did still remember. The club was founded as a charity
and they were keeping the tradition going.
The few passers-by up early in the Calton watched mystified as crowd in
Hooped shirts cheered the two lads on at the start of their journey. The words
of a suitable song echoed around Abercromby Street in the bright May sunshine
as the 60 plus Celtic fans woke up the nieghbourhood with a rousing chorus…
‘We’re on the one road, sharing the one load
We’re on the road to God knows where
We’re on the one road it may be the wrong road
But we’re together now who cares….’
Sean and Paddy took their first snap of their journey and used Sean’s
phone to log it onto the Facebook page. It showed them on the steps of St
Mary’s and was accompanied by the words ‘Here
we go again, we’re on the road again, we’re on our way to Paradise!’ Rucksacks
on their backs they headed north towards the Gallowgate as the cheers echoed in
their ears. ‘Where ur ye gone ya pair of
knobs, Ireland’s that way?’ shouted Dixie pointing in the opposite
direction. Paddy gave him the middle finger and a friendly smile and continued
walking north. He had a plan and he was sticking to it. The journey was about to begin!
It took them less than an hour to walk to the Fruit Market in the
Garngad area where a quick chat to drivers soon located the one they were
looking for. He was the only driver who was going through Cairnryan with his
load of fruit and he’d agreed to give the boys a lift. He was a big, red faced
Celtic man called Charlie and he had heard of the boys planned journey and
offered them a lift right away. ‘No sweat
lads, jump in the truck and I’ll get the Rebs on!’ he smiled. Soon they
were speeding south towards Cairnryan with ‘Boys
of the old Brigade’ belting out of Charlie’s impressive sounding music
system. They got through the Wolfe Tones greatest hits and a fair bit of
Christy Moore before they reached Cairnryan. Charlie was heading on to Dumfries
and then on to northern England but he was happy to drop them at the Ferry
Terminal. He popped his head out of his truck window as they waved him off and shouted, ‘Good
luck lads, give my regards to God’s own country!’ Paddy and Sean waved as
his truck pulled away, strains of ‘I wish
I was back home in Derry’ audible for a few seconds from the truck as it
joined the southbound traffic. ‘So far so good,’ Sean smiled at his
friend. Paddy then phoned his uncle and
after a brief conversation smiled at Sean. ‘He’s
on the 3 o’clock sailing, he’ll meet us at Gate B.’ Paddy took a picture of
Sean by the big sign which read ‘Cairnryan Ferry Terminal’ and posted it onto
Facebook with the message; ‘Reached
Cairnryan, total money spent: Zero!’ They headed towards the terminal and a
white transit van pulled up. ‘Jump in
Paddy,’ smiled his uncle. They sat in the back of the transit with the
other terminal workers and were soon past security and parked in the shadow of
the big P&O ship. Paddy’s uncle led them on board using a crew’s entrance
and told them to stay out of sight until he came back for them. They sat in an
empty cabin and soon felt the engines throb as the big ship shuddered and
slowly left Scotland. The two friends shared a sandwich and chatted about what
lay in store for them in Ireland. ‘We
need to hitch a lift south and be well on our way before it gets dark.’
Paddy nodded, ‘Best grab some shut eye
because it might be a long night once we’re off this ship.’ The two bhoys
snoozed as best they could as the ship ploughed its way across the Irish sea.
‘Sean’
Paddy mumbled, shaking his friend, ‘I can
see the Irish Coast!’ He could indeed see Ireland through the porthole of
their small cabin. They headed up the clanking metal stairway to the top deck
where they had a better view of the land that they had never set foot on yet
held such a place in their family histories. Paddy’s Uncle approached them and
gave some last words of advice, ‘Get a
lift from an older person if you can. Don’t talk politics, football or religion
and call each other some nickname that doesn’t give your background away. 99%
of people here are sound but like everywhere you’ll find the odd idiot. Don’t
wander too much and stay on the main roads if you can.’ The two pals
listened and nodded before heading for the steps that led to the exit from the
ship and their first footfall in Ireland. They cleared the terminal in 5 minutes flat
and were surprised at the complete lack of security or checks.
Sean told Paddy to wait with the bags while he asked a few people
outside the Ferry Terminal if there was any chance of a lift to Belfast or
beyond. For 10 minutes Paddy watched in silence as his gregarious friend used
his considerable charm on the locals.
Sean wandered back towards him with a smile on his face. ‘Managed to wangle a lift to Belfast mate but
for the next while I’m going to be Colin and you’re Billy, OK?’ No probs Sean!’ Paddy replied. ‘It’s
Colin, ya dick!’ Sean smiled at him. They got into a Renault car with a well-dressed
elderly man who waited patiently until their bags were loaded and seatbelts on
before pulling into traffic on the aptly named Coastguard Road. ‘Sam Coulter’s me name,’ he began in a
soft accent, ‘So what brings two nice
Scottish boys to Ulster?’ Sean spoke first, ‘Visiting relatives. Family funeral down Dungannon way, Sam.’ Sean
had obviously thought his cover story out so Paddy kept quiet for now. ‘Ah it’s a nice wee town Dungannon,’ said
Sam, ‘A lot of papists there but not a
bad place at all.’ Paddy, sitting in the back was glad Sean had the
passenger seat. Did people really use old fashioned words like ‘papists?’ he
thought. As he mulled this over, Sam went on, ‘I’m going as far as Belfast but I can drop ye near the motorway. I’m
sure you’ll get a lift from there.’ Sam them pushed an old style cassette
tape into his music system and smiled. ‘A
few wee tunes to make you lads feel at home.’ The shrill sound of flutes
and the staccato rhythm of drums filled the car as a deep voiced Ulsterman
began to sing.
‘Sure it’s old but it is beautiful
And its colours they are fine
It was worn at Derry, Aughrim
Enniskillen and the Boyne…’
Paddy almost choked on a snicker bar he was eating and squirmed in the
back of the car as the song continued. He was glad the old chap didn’t ask him
to join in. The short journey took the friends past names they had only seen on
news broadcasts; Ballynure, Ballyclare, Dunmurry till at last they reached
Belfast. Kindly old Sam dropped them at the Albert clock near the city centre
and waved to them like blood relatives, ‘Safe
Journey lads!’ he called as he drove off. Sean looked at Paddy waved at the
nice old gentleman before glancing at each other with a smile. Sean laughed ‘Right you ya big papist, let’s get yer pic
oan Facebook. Paddy shook his head
with a smile, ‘Nae bother Colin, eh
Sean!’ They laughed, breaking the tension of the car journey. Despite his
politics, Sam was obviously a decent old chap. The picture of Paddy at the foot
of the Albert Clock was duly posted with the sentence ‘Arrived in Belfast, Total money spent: ZERO’
Sean phoned one of the numbers big Phil had given him and within 5
minutes a red fiesta screeched to a halt at the kerb and a cheerful, red haired
young man wearing a Celtic shirt from several seasons ago jumped out and shook
their hands. ‘Sean and Paddy is it?’
he said in a heavy Belfast accent, ‘Big
Phil said to be helpin you lads out so you’re coming for a bit of tea at the
Rock afore ye get on with your journey.’ They drove through the unfamiliar
streets with their new friend who called himself ‘Knocker.’ Sean asked how he
had come by this unusual name. He smiled and replied, ‘Let’s just say, I’ve knocked up a few girls in me time.’ Paddy
somehow doubted this explanation as ‘Knocker’ was no Brad Pitt. Knocker pointed
out many landmarks as they travelled through Belfast. The various murals
recording the history of the troubles, the much bombed Europa hotel and the
peace wall which so visibly divided the communities. There were huge gates on
main roads intersecting the wall which could be closed at times of tension.
Sean looked at some of the hopeful graffiti sprayed onto the big concrete symbol
of division. One sentence said; ‘The real
barriers are in your minds.’ Very
true, he mused.
‘The Rock’ turned out to be ‘The Rock Bar’ on the Falls Road. Knocker pulled up outside and led the lads to
the front door. Inside, there was a cheer from the crowded bar as they entered.
A ruddy faced bear of a man called Barney welcomed the two travelers. ‘Great to see you boys, we’ve been wondering
if ye’d give us a bell. I want ye to sit, have a few beers, a bit o’ grub.
We’ve arranged a wee lift for ye tomorrow to take you closer to Sligo.’ Paddy
thanked him, feeling a warm glow inside that they were among friends, among the
Celtic family. The Bar was decorated with bunting consisting of a long string
of small Irish tri-colours. On the wall were framed Celtic shirts and pictures
of various Celts who had visited the bar. Hands were shaken, backs slapped and the two
friends returned the many smiles they received. Knocker led them to a table
where two tall pints of Guinness awaited them. Paddy smiled at Sean, ‘Celtic family is great eh?’ Sean smiled at him, ‘Salt of the earth, Paddy boy, salt of the earth.’
An hour later the two lads had been well fed and the beer was beginning
to mellow them. Knocker told them many
of the stories and legends of the Falls Road area. He was a mine of information
about incidents, happy and sad, which occurred in the area over the years. A
couple of guys with Celtic shirts on arrived with their guitars and set up on
the small raised stage and soon the whole place was rocking to songs old and
new. The beer flowed and Paddy and Sean sang along with their newfound
friends….
‘Have you heard of the big strong man, he lived
in a caravan
Have you heard about the Jeffrey Johnstone
fight? Oh what a hellva fight?
You can take all the heavyweights you’ve got,
We’ve got a lad who can beat the whole lot!
He used to ring the bells in the belfry now he’s
gonna fight Jack Dempsey!’
The bar rocked all night as Sean and Paddy slowly got drunk and had the
time of their lives. They did remember to post a picture on the Facebook page
of them in the Rock looking very merry in the middle of a happy throng of
Celts, beneath it Sean wrote ‘Among friends
in Belfast. Money Spent: Zero.’
The next morning they awoke to the smell of sizzling bacon. Sean’s head
was pounding and his mouth dry from more drink than was sensible. He focused on
the strange room he was in, trying to piece together where the hell he was. He
looked at the unfamiliar ceiling as his mind slowly refocused and pieced
together last night’s events. Paddy was snoring on a camp bed to his left and
their rucksacks were neatly placed by the wall. The small room was decorated
with Celtic and Cliftonville posters and flags. Beside the window was a framed
picture of Bobby Sands, smiling his gentle smile. At the bottom of the picture
were the words, ‘Our Revenge will be in the
laughter of our children.’ Knocker entered the room in his usual cheerful
mood, ‘Morning lads, time ye were up and
about. I’ve made ye some breakfast and yer man is coming in an hour to give ye
a lift,’ ‘Thanks Knocker,’ said
Sean, ‘I don’t remember coming here last
night but that was some night in the Rock. Great people there.’ Knocker
smiled, ‘Aye, they are that. Ye seemed to
know all the songs though, loved your version of the Old Brigade! It was a rare
oul night right enough!’ Sean blinked at him, ‘I was up singing? Jesus, I sing like cat getting choked.’ Knocker
smiled, ‘Ach, ye did well, we all belted
it out anyway so ye’d not be heard above us lot anyway.’ An hour later the
two pilgrims were showered, fed and ready for the road again. ‘Bernie will drive ye to Enniskillen,’ said
Knocker, ‘He delivers fish so his van will smell like a Linfield Supporters bus
but he’s a good lad.’ As if on cue a horn sounded outside. Knocker smiled,
‘Safe journey boys, the Rock is
sponsoring you for a few quid. It’s a good cause and good to remember why
Celtic started in the first place.’ They left Knocker with a handshake and hug
and a promise to return to Belfast on the way home.
Bernie Corrigan, a stout middle aged son of the Falls with a mop of grey
hair and a face which was at once friendly and tough, smiled at them ‘I can fit you fellas in the front with me
but yer bags will need to go in with the fish.’ They headed out of Belfast
past more of the murals which recorded the turbulent history of the city and remembered
the ghosts of former times. The two friends had probably worried most about
this part of the journey but they had found nothing but warmth and humour in
Belfast, even from old Sam. Bernie put on his music and they travelled through
the lush green countryside with Foster and Allen booming out. Sean smiled at
Paddy, ‘They like their music the Irish
eh?’ Paddy rolled his eyes, Foster
and Allen not quite to his taste. Bernie glanced at him, ‘Oh yes we do that, young fella, I’ll get some Danny O’Donnell on later.
Now that boy can sing.’ The two
friends endured Bernie’s unique musical taste for a good hour and a half as
they rattled down the M1 and then the A4 towards Enniskillen in his pungent
smelling fish van. ‘I hear you boys are
going on to Sligo?’ Bernie said, ‘Fine
County and decent people.’ Sean nodded, ‘Aye,
Bernie, going to Ballymote where Brother Walfrid came from.’ Bernie smiled,
More of a GAA man myself but sure we all
know about Celtic. We know about Walfrid too and yer man Sean Fallon, both
Sligo boys.’ Bernie, for all his poor taste in music told them fascinating
tales of the troubles in the border country and of the money some made
smuggling. ‘Some of the big houses you’ll
see were paid for by smuggling petrol and pigs, not in the same truck you
understand but the European Union had its pockets picked here all right!’ Paddy smiled, ‘And they say the Irish are slow!’ Bernie grinned, ‘Aye, slow as a feckin cheetah!’ They
laughed as the passed the sign which said, ‘Welcome
To Enniskillen.’ ‘Nearly the end of
the road for me lads,’ Bernie said, ‘But
I’ll be droppin ye at a pub in town where I know a good friend of Celtic will
be meeting you. Knocker was after setting it up for ye so you’ll be fine.’ He stopped his van by the kerb in Forthill
Street. ‘Willie Ramblers Pub is over
there, ask for Declan Brennan and he’ll keep ye right,’ They both shook
Bernie’s hand and thanked him for his kindness. ‘Sure it was nothing at all, I was going this way anyway and ye seem
decent lads,’ he relied in his strong Belfast accent. ‘Declan Brennan mind! Fierce Celtic man he is too, good luck to ye now!’
With that Bernie pulled into the traffic and left the two friends in the town
of Enniskillen.
It was mid-afternoon as they approached the front door of Willie
Ramblers Bar. It was set in a one storey high building which ran along Forthill
Street. Next door was a Chinese takeaway and to the right was what appeared to
be an amusement arcade. It was in many ways typical of small town Ireland. As
Sean pushed the door open music drifted out towards him. It was the
unmistakable tones of Christy Moore… ‘Ooooh
Lisdoonvarna, Lisdoon, Lisdoon, Lisdoon Lisdoonvarna.’ Once Sean’s eyes
adjusted to the low light he could plainly see that it was sadly not Christy in
person but a CD playing somewhere. He eased his way through the noisy, crowded
pub and approached the long Bar. The
Barman, a tall thin man with a moustache a seventies porn star would be proud
of looked at them with the blank face he no doubt reserved for strangers. ‘And what can I be getting for you lads now?’
Sean smiled, ‘We’re looking for Declan
Brennan mate. Is he in?’ The Barman’s eyes narrowed and he said in a
suspicious voice ‘And who wants to know?’ Paddy noticed that most of the drinkers in
the bar had gone very quiet and were watching them intently. It seemed as if
old Christy Moore was the only sound in the pub. Sean continued sounding braver
than he was feeling, ‘He’s helping us
reach Ballymote in Sligo, we were told we’d be in here.’ The Barman stared
at them as the bar stilled to absolute silence. Sean was quietly quite worried
about this turn of events. Had they got the wrong place? Was this a loyalist
pub? Suddenly the lights went up and there was an almighty cheer! The Barman
smiled as the music changed to a tune the boys knew well began and the whole
pub roared out…
‘Hail Hail the Celts are here
What the hell do we care, what the hell do we
care
Hail Hail the Celts are here, what the hell do
we care now!’
Sean looked at Paddy, ‘What the
fu…’ A tall dark haired man of about 40 with a beard intersected by a wide
smile shouted through the din, ‘I’m
Declan lads, we’ve been expecting you. Welcome to Enniskillen!’ Sean and
Paddy looked bewildered. ‘Sorry we had a wee
bit of sport with you there,’ Declan went on but you’re our guests now and our hands and hearts are open to you.’
He extended a big labourer’s paw which squeezed Sean and Paddy’s hand in a grip
like a vice. ‘We’ll get ye some grub and
a few beers and then I’ll be driving you down to Sligo.’ He led the two
friends to a table where a crowd of younger Irish lads and girls smiled and
patted their backs, ‘Followed your journey on Facebook,’ A slim red haired girl
began, ‘Thought you might have run into a
bit of bother in Belfast but those lads at the Rock are great, knew they’d see
ye right.’ Paddy and Sean relaxed, among friends again. A young man with an
untidy mop of black hair and a style best described as ‘Irish-Goth’ smiled and
chipped in, ‘Thousands of likes on
Facebook, yer journey is being watched by Celts all over the place. Ye better
make it to Ballymote!’ He smiled at them as a tray laden with Guinness and
what looked like vodka arrived. Declan smiled, ‘Food on its way and remember, you have to make it to Ballymote without
spending a coin. So no buying of rounds or such like, You’re our guests and
you’ll find no more hospitable people than the Celts of Enniskillen!’ Declan
was right as the drink and craic flowed and the two travellers revelled in it
all. The crowded bar was in good voice too as ‘Viva La Quinta Brigada’ boomed out and they all joined in. Then they
began to sing familiar song, one more suited to a couple of Wayfarers heading
for the home town of Brother Walfrid…
By a lonely prison wall, I heard a young girl calling
Michael they have taken you away,
For you stole Trevelyan’s corn, that the young
might see the morn
Now a prison ship lies waiting in the bay’
Paddy and Sean, again mellowed by drink and happy among their new
friends, joined in the song, singing with all their hearts. It amazed them the
bonds which joined the Celtic family so tightly together. Paddy was near tears
as he joined in the song and Sean’s eyes were closed as the entire Bar sang the
chorus with a beautiful togetherness…
‘Low lie the fields of Athenry
Where once we watched the small free birds fly
Our love was on the wing, we had dreams and
songs to sing
It’s so lonely around the fields of Athenry,’
They passed some happy hours in that pub in the fine town of Enniskillen
among some of the nicest people they had ever met. It was nine in the evening
and the sun was waning in the May sky as they left the Bar with the thankfully sober
Declan to continue their journey south. Another photo of the two friends with
the Enniskillen Celts crowding around them was posted on their Facebook page
under the caption, ‘Willie Rambler’s Bar, Eniskillen!
Almost there! Total spent: Zero.’ Sean read the Facebook page for a few seconds,
‘Big Phil’s posted, said we look pissed
in every picture we’ve put on so far!’
Paddy laughed, ‘He’s feckin right
there then!’
They shook a hundred hands before they found themselves in the back of
Declan’s large BMW and heading south. Like every other Irish person on the
planet, Declan enjoyed his music and as Sean and Paddy sat in the back of the
car, beautiful and haunting Gaelic music of Clannad swept over them. Sean, the
worse from numerous drinks in Willie Rambler’s was rocked to sleep as the car
crossed the border into the Irish Republic. Paddy read the road signs as Declan
filled him in on more of the stories and legends of this part of Ireland. He
spoke not only of the troubles and their effect on the area but also of the
tales and folklore of Ireland. Paddy learned of Cuchulainn, the children of Lir,
Finn MacCool and the stone circles which dotted Ireland. He listened,
spellbound by the mythology of Ireland and Declan’s obvious enthusiasm for the
subject. ‘There’s a statue of Cuchulainn
in the Dublin Post Office to commemorate the men of 1916. When his enemies came
for his head they say he turned into a flock of swans and flew off.’ Declan
said as he turned onto the N16 road which led to the town of Sligo. Perhaps it
was the drink, the haunting music and Declan’s enthusiasm for the old stories
and legends but Paddy was enthralled by the tales and legends he heard. He
realised that he hardly knew Ireland despite his grandparents being Donegal
folk.
Declan knew his stuff all right but he soon switched to those other
legends which Paddy knew well, the Lisbon Lions, Neil Lennon, Pat Bonner, Tully
and Sean Fallon. Paddy was grasping just how deeply embedded in Ireland
Celtic’s roots were and how proud many Irish folk were of Celtic. He was
looking forward to finally seeing Ballymote the place where Andrew Kerins was
born and grew up. The place where, in a sense, Celtic had their beginnings too.
Declan drove through the quiet streets of Sligo in the gathering darkness. The
centre of the town still had people milling around but it was clear that it was
late and most folk were heading home as the bars closed. He stopped by the
river in Markievicz Road and turned to Paddy, ‘Best wake Sean up, I’ll phone a good friend here and he’ll be putting
you up tonight.’ Sean grumbled as Paddy nudged him. ‘We’re in Sligo mate, get yer ass in gear.’
Tommy Brady appeared from a nearby house. He was a cheerful looking man
of about 35 who sported a crop of untidy red hair and walked with a decided limp.
‘Here’s Tommy now, best not to mention
his limp,’ said Declan as he helped the lads get their bags out of the car.
Sean looked at Paddy and shrugged, Tommy’s limp was his own business. The
introductions were made and Tommy used Sean’s phone to take a picture of the
two Glasgow boys and Declan standing by the river in Sligo with the bright new
flats on the opposite bank in the background. Sean soon posted it on Facebook
with the message, ‘Half pissed, tired but
safely in Sligo! Total Money spent: Zero’ They thanked Declan as he smiled
at them, ‘No problem at all lads. Good
luck with yer journey, you’re almost there now.’ They watched as he drove
off into the night, his tail lights blinking in the darkness. Yet another good
guy they had met on their journey. Tommy,
who said he was a distant relative of Sean Fallon, led them to his guest house
which was getting ready for the coming summer season. He fed them well on cabbage and bacon and then
sensing their tiredness, showed them the room they’d be sleeping in. ‘I’ll wake you in the morning lads, have a
good rest now, It’s Walfrid’s birthday tomorrow so I’m thinking you’ll be
heading for Ballymote. I’m working myself up in Derry tomorrow so I can’t take
you unfortunately but you’ll get a bus in town every hour.’ With that their
kind host left them to rest and soon the two friends were fast asleep.
They slept as only tired men with a good deal of alcohol in their systems
can sleep and awoke with streams of bright May light pouring in the window and
the sound of gulls somewhere squabbling. Tommy had left a note on the kitchen table
for them. It said: ‘I let you lie on as
you were both very tired. Food in fridge, help yourself. Bus to Ballymote is
number 471 from the Bus Station in town centre. Have a good day.’ Sean made
Paddy some bacon and eggs and the two friends sat at the kitchen table
discussing the last couple of days and the kindness they’d experienced since
they set foot in Ireland. Tommy’s small guest house didn’t appear to have any
other guests and it amazed Sean that he trusted two strangers enough to leave
them alone with the run of the place. ‘That’s
the Celtic family for you Sean,’ said Paddy. His friend looked at him, ‘Let’s get cleaned up and head into town and
get the bus to Ballymote. I can’t wait to see Walfrid’s home town’ Two
hours later they were in the centre of Sligo boarding the number 471 bus to
Ballymote. At last their quest was almost complete and they had still not spent
a single penny.
The driver looked at them expectedly as Sean stopped short and said to
Paddy, ‘Mate we can’t pay the fare! We’re so close and we’ve not spent a coin,
we can’t spoil it now!’ Paddy looked at the driver and decided on direct
honesty, ‘Listen mate, here’s the thing’
he began, ‘We’ve travelled from Glasgow
all the way to Sligo for charity. We need to get to Ballymote without spending
a coin. We’ve visiting Brother Walfrid’s birthplace, is there any chance you
could let us on without paying?’ The driver, a young, dark haired man in an
ill-fitting uniform looked at Sean’s Celtic shirt, ‘The Inspectors would have me job if I did that lads.’ Paddy’s face
fell, ‘Right, we’ll walk it. How far is
it Pal?’ The young driver looked at
them, surprise on his face ‘It’s about 13
miles but ye can’t be taking on a walk like that. The weather’s due to break
later.’ Before Paddy and Sean could
turn to leave the bus the driver stood awkwardly in his compartment, his hand
digging into his pocket. He brought out a 20 Euro note and put it in the slot
of the ticket machine. ‘Sure, I’m a
sucker for a sob story and well isn’t me old Da a Celtic fan. Consider this my
donation to the charity.’ He printed two return tickets and told the two
young Scots to sit. Paddy choked up a little and shook the driver’s hand. Sean
asked his name, ‘We’ll put your name on
our Facebook page, you’re a generous man.’ The driver smiled and looked a
little embarrassed, ‘Sure charity is its
own reward and I’m not the kind for advertising my good deeds.’ They never
did find out his name. They slumped in their seats ready for the final leg of
their journey.
The near empty bus trundled through the lush green fields of Sligo,
through the small village of Collooney before arriving shortly after that the centre of Ballymote.
The driver dropped them at Gormley’s Bar and as he pulled off again shouted, ‘Last bus back to Sligo is half past nine
tonight!’ They waved him off and then looked around another typically Irish
small town. In the distance was they could see the steeple of a church but
their first job was to take a picture and get the news onto Facebook that they
had in fact made it to Ballymote. Paddy took off his jacket and stood outside
Gormley’s in his Hoops. The picture was posted on Facebook with the words: ‘Arrived in Ballymote on Brother Walfrid’s
birthday! Total spent: Zero! We made it so get the 1254125 donations paid!’
They entered Gormley’s Bar with the intention of asking the locals if
they knew where Walfrid’s cottage was. The Bar was completely empty apart from
the dark haired girl behind the bar who smiled at Sean and seemed to look right
into his eyes, ‘And what can I be getting
for a handsome fellah like you now?’ she smiled. Sean’s cheeks flushed
slightly but returned her gaze and her smile too before saying, ‘Actually we’re looking for some directions,
I wonder if you can help?’ She leaned on the Bar not breaking her gaze, ‘Oh, I’m always happy to help a good looking
stranger out, what is it ye need to know?’ Sean replied, ‘We’ve travelled all the way from Glasgow to
Ballymote and we want to find Brother Walfrid’s house. Any idea where it is?’ Her
eyes widened, ‘Are you the two lads with
the Facebook page?’ Her smile widened, ‘Sure
haven’t we all followed your progress! Wait till I tell me brother!’ She
turned and called to the kitchen area which was through a door behind the bar.
‘Tony! Will ye come and see who’s in the
bar, only those two Scottish hobbits that’ve been wandering all over Ireland!’
Sean looked at Paddy, ‘Hobbits? She must
have heard about your hairy feet.’ Her bother appeared dressed in an apron
which didn’t quite cover his black Celtic away shirt. His grin was as wide as
the Clyde, ‘Paddy and Sean is it? This is
fantastic! Ye must take a picture in the bar for your Facebook page. You get in
too Saorise.’ The two friends stood with the dark haired Saorise between
them as Tony used Sean’s phone to take the picture. Sean felt a familiar and
pleasant feeling as Saorise slipped her hand around his waist for the photo. It
was duly posted on the Facebook page with the caption ‘Gormley’s Bar, Ballymote, with our new friends Saorise and Tony. Total
money spent: Still Zero!’ Tony insisted on feeding the two friends and
Saorise, still it seemed a little smitten by Sean sat with them chatting about
the new Brother Walfrid Memorial Park in Ballymote. ‘Sure it’s just up the road, they have a grand statue of yer man there
too. Most famous fellah this old town has ever produced.’ They arranged for
Saorise to take them on a tour of the Park and then out into the fields where
Walfrid’s old home still stood, albeit in a ruined condition. In the meantime a
huge plate of food was set before them and Saorise pulled them a pint of
Guinness barely taking her eyes of Sean. ‘Think
she fancies you mate,’ Paddy said quietly. Sean smiled at him, ‘No shit Sherlock, need to get you on
Mastermind eh?’ They both laughed.
Two hours later Sean, Paddy and Saorise strolled through the Brother
Walfrid Memorial Park in Ballymote. Some children were playing and laughing and
Paddy watched them running past. He smiled to see one was wearing a Celtic
shirt. The well laid out park did indeed
have a bust of Brother Walfrid on a stone plinth. It was set against a circular
Celtic crest and was in Sean’s opinion, a thing of beauty. ‘What a fantastic tribute to the founding
father,’ he said, ‘he’ll never be
forgotten here or in Glasgow.’ Another photograph was taken and duly posted
online. They wandered the park in the bright evening sunshine pleased and also
proud that they’d managed to complete their quest. ‘Just one last place to visit,’
said Paddy looking at Saorise. She nodded, ‘His
old house is fallin’ down but I know where it is. It’s out in the fields, so
we’d best get going.’
They walked for what seemed a long time, out of the town along lanes and
across fields of deepest emerald. Saorise then led them through a gap in a
hedge to where the ruined walls and caved in roof of a small but, in its time
solid, cottage once stood. ‘This is it
Sean,’ she said quietly. ‘A hundred
like it around here. The hunger killed thousands in the old days and drove
thousands more away.’ Sean looked in silence at the dilapidated cottage,
imagining a young Andrew Kerins running around it as a boy, sleeping beneath
its sheltering roof, eating with his parents and his brother Bernard. ‘This is it then,’ he said feeling
emotions welling in him, ‘This is where
it all began for Walfrid and for Celtic.’ Paddy nodded and placed his
rucksack on the ground. He took from it the Celtic cross given to him by Phil
from their supporters’ bus. ‘Here Sean,
you do it mate.’ He said, his voice breaking a little and a lazy tear
rolling down his face. Saorise looked
on as Sean ducked under the low lintel of the front door and stepped inside. He
looked at the fallen timbers and stonework and picked his way towards the wall
with the still recognisable remains of a fireplace and chimney. He found a gap
in the stone wall about five foot off the floor and placed the cross in it
mumbling quietly, ‘God bless you Walfrid,
we’ll never forget you.’ He looked around one last time, ‘I’m glad we came Paddy. It’s a day I’ll
never forget.’ As he left the cottage a startled bird cawed and flew out of
the cottage into the clear blue sky. Paddy smiled, ‘Oh baby let the free birds fly!’ Sean joined Paddy and Saorise
outside the Kerins family cottage for one last photograph. Saorise pictured the two friends in their
beloved Hoops, arms around each other outside the ramshackle old house where a
good man was born more than 170 years earlier. It was posted on their Facebook
Page with the words: ‘Walfrid’s Cottage
and Journey’s end.’ Almost as an afterthought Paddy paraphrased Neil Lennon
by adding, ‘For Celtic, though this wasn’t the end, it was just the beginning.
Hail Hail.’
They wandered back towards Ballymote passing other ruined cottages from
the days of An Gorta Mor. ‘It’s hard to
believe all the people who had to leave these places,’ said Sean. Saorise
nodded, Same all over Ireland, Sligo lost about a third of its people back then.’ Paddy
shook his head, ‘Sad old days.’
Saorise’s face changed and she smiled changing the tack of the conversation, ‘The pub will be full tonight, we’re having a
great big party to mark your achievement!
It’s a time for celebration!’ Sean smiled at her, ‘You’re right, Walfrid would want us to
celebrate his life.’ Paddy agreed, ‘He’d
want us to celebrate the fact that we made it and so did his club.’ Saorise
looked at him, ‘God, you boys really love
that football club don’t you?’ Sean smiled at her, ‘It’s part of us Saorise, just as those old cottages are part of your
story, Celtic is part of our story, part of who we are.’ She nodded, ‘A grand old team right enough.’